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It has museums and ancient architecture, but it's a modern city. True, the city center is a pedestrian area that is like a museum to early Flemish architecture... and a testament to the city's medieval might, but it's surrounded by a real life city. The tourist brochures say it has more historic sites than Antwerp and is more down-to-earth "real" than Bruges. While I love Bruges, I think I agree with them.
It's not high on a lot of tourists lists, but it deserves to be. I have to admit, the only reason we went to Ghent in the first place was because we had hosted a student from the university one summer in the U.S. One afternoon was all we had time for because we were visiting other Belgian friends, but consider spending a night here.
As a tourist, it's the old city center you want to visit. You'll find a wealth of history to explore within the outline of the old city walls. You'll see impressive Gothic sites, such as dramatic St. Bavos's Cathedral and the Castle of the Counts. The city's medieval core is cradled within a loop of the River Leie, which surrounds the old town like a moat.
It's a big city... Belgium's fourth largest, but you'll only be dealing with the center. The historical center is divided into "areas". To find your way around on the tourists maps you need to become familiar with these areas.... don't worry, there's no quiz and it's not hard. The historical city center is in the area called Toren-site. To the north is Patershol, which contains a lot of the best restaurants. To the south is the Kunstenkwartier, where most of the universities' 50,000 students congregate.
There are numerous waterways passing through the city center. The city started as a settlement on the Scheldt and Lys (Leie) Rivers. But you don't need to know all the rivers and canals.... just know that all this water makes the city pretty.
Castle of the Counts is an imposing fortress type castle in the heart of the city -- The Gravensteen area or "Gravensteen-site". This imposing castle was RE-built in 1180 (and then restored in the 19th century). It overlooks the city from it's battlements high up on the keep and you get a great panoramic view of the city from the tower. There is an authentic medieval district in the shadow of the Castle ... It is still partially surrounded by a medieval moat.
The area called Toren-site is the historical heart of the city. This is where you'll find Saint Bavo Cathedral with the Ghent Altarpiece - The Mystic Lamb by Hubert and Jan Van Eyck. This famous multi-section altarpiece was completed in 1432, and is worth a look whether you're an art lover or not.
Walk over St. Michael's Bridge, also in the heart of town... in the Graslei-site. The Graslei is one of the most scenic places in Ghent's old city center. From the bridge, you'll have a wonderful view of the skyline of Ghent with the three impressive towers of St Nicholas' Church, the Belfry with its bell tower, and Saint Bavo Cathedral.
If all of these areas make the city sound spread out... it's not; at least not the historical center. You won't get lost in Ghent... pedestrian signposts are everywhere. So stop and explore this historic Dutch city; you'll be glad you did.
Happy travels... even if you don't travel the world... just remember that life is a journey... embrace and enjoy it! Judy and Mark
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