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Timbuktu or Dogon Country?

That was our dilemma. We thought we wanted to go to Timbuktu, so we went to Mali a few years ago. Mali has as many visa requirements as anywhere, so checking their Embassy site will give you a good idea what to expect anywhere in the world.

You need:

     A valid passport
     Two (2) recent passport size photos (glued on the application forms)
     Two (2) completed application forms
     A copy of an airline itinerary or a flight ticket
     A copy of the yellow fever certificate
     A copy of hotel reservation
     The appropriate fee ($100 for US citizens)

We went to Mali BEFORE THE INTERNET..... Yes it's true; there hasn't always been the World Wide Web. The internet has made travel so much easier. We had to call the Embassy of Mali and have them send an application form..., and we had to send our passports through the mail. But the requirements weren't quite so strick. We didn't have to have a hotel reservation, and maybe that wasn't so good. We got our visa..., but we went without any real plans, and that was our problem. We didn't get to Timbuktu because we had to choose between that and Dogon country.

When we got to the capital of Bamako, we found the government travel service and talked to them about getting to Timbuktu. We found that the (then) weekly flight to Timbuktu had been cancelled. We could drive to Timbuktu up one side of the Niger River, or we could go to Mopti and the Dogon country. Since there was so much culturally in Djenne, Mopti, and the Dogon region, we went for that, and with much reluctance, we missed Tombouctou as it is known there.

We arranged for a car and driver. We were very careful to ask for a good driver. And he was. He was careful and took good care of us.... but he had never been out of the capital city of Bamako. That made for an adventure! One tip here is to be careful what you ask for and how you phrase it. Our driver was safe and kind, but he was as much of a tourist as we were.

travel, Djenne mosque in Mali Africa



We drove to Djenne, arriving in the early evening to see the Grand Mosque which is the largest mudbrick mosque in the world and a World Heritage site.

Not Timbuktu--Djenne mosque



Then we went to Mopti to spend the night. Mopti is known as the "Venice of Mali" because it is located between the Niger and Bani Rivers. In the market, we saw the Tuaregs, the blue men of the Sahara. Their caravans had brought salt slabs from the Sahara Desert to the Mopti riverside to sell. The ladies in the market were beautiful in their colorful dresses.

Tuareg nomads in Mopti, Mali Africa Mopti Africa




We drove on into Bandiagara and Sangha in Dogon country. Just outside our hotel in Sangha, we were lucky to see traditional dancers.... they were putting on a show for a visiting dignitary. We hiked down the Bandiagara escarpment. Villages cling to the cliffs their typical granaries and distinctive houses.

Dogon Dancers Mali Dogon Village Mali Africa

And it was all worth it, but we still regret that we didn't get across the Niger River to Timbuktu.

Travel tips for getting to Timbuktu?

This is a destination you need to plan for unless you have lots of time to wait around. There are regular flights from Bamako, the capital, and from Mopti, but they go only once to three times a week. Schedules change often, and flights may be erratic or cancelled. You could go by boat from Bamako or Mopti but this will depend on the water level in the NIger River. You can also get a car and driver to take you up the other side of the Niger River from Mopti, but the track is rough. We have heard that there is bus service. Check ahead for any of these options and make your plans before you go. And even then, be flexible.

A government tourist office or travel service is a good place to check if you arrive in a developing country without plans.

And to repeat that tip about our driver.... Be careful what you ask for. We asked for a good driver... and he was... and we've laughed about our adventures with him and the wrong turns we made. Maybe what we should have asked for was an experienced driver, but then we probably wouldn't have had to buy him the t-shirt!

Trust me, we'll get back to Mali some day and see that fabled city. Timbuktu should be on every travelers brag list!

Happy Travels!


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